Common Gardening Questions and Answers
If you’re new to gardening and feeling overwhelmed, we hope this Q&A will answer some questions. As always, if you ever need help, don’t hesitate to contact us at info@territorialseed.com!
Getting Started
Q: I’ve never gardened before – what are some of the easiest crops to start with?
A: As a generality, crops like peas, beans, lettuce, cucumbers, and zucchini are the easiest, specifically when you consider their required maintenance, possible disease or pest issues, and the actual process of starting the plants from seed. However, we would encourage you to experiment with a wide variety of crops and allow yourself time for trial and error to determine what you enjoy growing and what works best for your space!
Q: How do I know which zone I am in and why does it matter?
A: The best way to know which hardiness zone you are in is by visiting: https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/. It’s important to know which zone you are in as it impacts the length of your growing season, the plants that perennialize in your area, and when you can plant or transplant outside. It is imperative to note, however, that there are other factors that can impact your success – zone 8 in one part of the country may look very different than zone 8 in another.
Q: How do I choose plants for my zone?
A: If you’re looking at perennials, the product page for the item you’re considering should indicate the hardiness zones where it is a perennial. For annual crops, the most important thing to consider is when they should be planted in your area. While certain varieties may do better in some areas than others, timing is key. As a reminder, don’t be afraid to experiment – even long-term gardeners fail sometimes! Reaching out to your local Master Gardener/Extension program can be a great resource as well!
Q: What kind of soil do I need?
A: There is no straightforward answer. If you are growing directly in the ground, you may not need to bring in additional soil, although it may be beneficial to incorporate in some compost or manure to add additional nutrients. If you are starting with new containers or raised beds, you will likely be purchasing fresh soil. You will want to get a high-quality soil from a reliable source. Popular brands are not necessarily the highest quality or best option, and you will want to avoid getting compost or soil brought in from places like the city yard waste facility. You can get soil with fertilizer or added nutrients already mixed in, or you can go with something more basic like top soil. There are also several certified organic options on the market as well. Some people even make their own mixes!
Seed Starting
Q: How do I start seeds?
A: There is not a one-size-fits-all answer to this question. Check the product page or the Growing Guides section of our website for specific directions on starting seeds and reach out to us with additional questions.
Q: Why did my seedlings die?
A: A common issue when starting seeds is damping off. If your seedlings have started growing and you’ve lost a large portion of the tray (or the entire thing), this is likely the cause. Damping off is caused by a fungus or mold that thrives in wet, cool conditions. Very few seedlings impacted by damping off will survive.
To reduce the likelihood of seedling damping off:
Use fresh seed starting mix every time. Do not reuse seed starting mix and do not use garden soil or compost.
Sterilize all containers (trays, pots, etc.). You can use a 10% bleach solution and soak the items for 30 minutes.
Clean all tools used in the seed starting and seedling maintenance processes.
Keep the soil warm enough (70-75˚F is ideal) and don’t let the water get too soggy.
Ensure your containers have good drainage.
Do not fertilize seedlings until they have several sets of true leaves (see more below).
Ensure seedlings get the proper amount of light.
Q: Why are my starts leggy and how can I prevent it?
A: “Leggy” is the word commonly used when seedlings stretch out. This causes them to be weaker and they may begin toppling over. They will have long, thin stems with a lot of space between sets of leaves. Starts/seedlings become leggy when they are stretching for light. Occasionally, leggy seedlings can be salvaged, although they may become too far gone and a fresh batch of seeds should be started. The best way to reduce stretching is by providing a light source 4-6 inches directly above the seedlings, moving it as they grow or show signs of either legginess or overheating.
Q: When should I move my starts outside?
A: This will depend on the crop and your area. As a general rule of thumb, seedlings should be moved outside once the fear of frost has passed. It is recommended to harden off the seedlings for 10-14 days (more or less depending on weather) before transplanting outside.
Q: What should I direct sow vs starting inside?
A: The most common crops to be started inside include those in the nightshade family (tomatoes, peppers, eggplant) and onions, as well as many herbs and flowers. Many people will start cucumbers, squash, and melons inside, although they tend to do better being direct sown as the transplant process can stress them out. Crops like lettuce and root crops should generally be direct sown.
Watering and Fertilizing
Q: What is the best way to water my garden?
A: Whether you use a hose, drip tape, or watering can, the most important thing to remember is to water the soil directly and as close as possible. This helps keep the leaves dry, which can prevent sun scorch and disease issues and helps ensure the water gets where it’s needed – the roots – while reducing waste from evaporation. You should also try to reduce splashing as this can lead to disease issues as well.
When possible, try to water earlier in the day – by midmorning is ideal. This will help ensure the plants are able to take up enough water before the heat of the day causes evaporation rates to increase. It can also help reduce stress caused by plants getting too dry. It is recommended to avoid watering during the hottest part of the day as well as in the evening. Plants watered too late in the day do not have time to properly dry out before the evening temperature drop, which can lead to an increase in pathogen issues.
Q: How often should I water?
A: This is dependent on many factors: weather, what you’re growing, where you’re growing, etc. Some crops need more water than others. Crops grown in containers will likely need to be watered more often. It’s good to always check the soil before watering so you don’t overwater. A great way to check the soil is by sticking the eraser end of a wooden pencil into the soil an inch or so. If it comes out dirty, you shouldn’t need to water, but if it comes out clean, it may be time.
Q: When can I start fertilizing my seedlings and with what?
A: Do not fertilize your seedlings until they have developed several sets of true leaves. You can differentiate first leaves from true leaves by their shape as true leaves will look like the leaves of the mature plant. Once you’re ready to start fertilizing, use a water soluble, well-balanced option, such as a 10-10-10, at ¼ strength. You can fertilize at full strength once your seedlings are established after transplanting.
Q: How often should I fertilize?
A: Once again, there is not a one-size-fits-all answer. Some crops need more nutrients than others, and not all crops need the same nutrients. It is absolutely possible to overfertilize your crops, which can be detrimental to their growth and lead to an influx of additional nutrients in the environment in runoff. Some nutrients in high quantities can stunt growth or cause undesirable results. We strongly recommend having your soil professionally tested before adding any fertilizer or other amendments!
Maintaining the Garden
Q: How often do I need to weed?
A: The short answer is as often as you can! Keep weeds to a minimum and remove them before they have a chance to get too big to help your crops grow stronger as there will be less competition for important resources. It will also help ensure the weeds don’t get away from you, making gardening much more enjoyable and aiding in the reduction of pest and disease issues.
Q: How do I provide support and what needs to be supported?
A: The most common crops that require support include tomatoes, cucumbers, and pole beans/peas. Vining crops, such as squash and melons, can be supported, especially if you want to make the most of your space by growing vertically, although it is not necessary. You can use tomato cages, trellises, plastic or bamboo stakes, or just about anything else sturdy enough to support what you are growing. It is important not to attach the plant to the support too tightly – leaving some “wiggle room” will allow the plant to move in the wind. If it's too tight, the plant may bend or break at the tie point.
What’s wrong with my plant?
Q: Why do the leaves have holes in them?
A: Bugs! More than likely, the holes you are seeing are caused by insects feeding on them, although there are some diseases that cause holes to develop in the leaves. Check out our Common Pests and Diseases series to discover some possible answers. Many insects are easy to spot (make sure to check the underside of the leaves!), although others may not be as obvious. You may also need to go out during different times of the day to discover the issue. For example, slugs are most commonly active at night, so you may need to go out with a flashlight! Never treat for pests or diseases without knowing what you are dealing with!
Q: Why are my leaves turning yellow/brown and/or crispy?
A: There are several things that can cause issues with leaves. Allowing a plant to dry out too much can cause leaves to die. Many plant diseases will cause discoloration (chlorosis) or death (necrosis) of the leaves. Frost/cool temperatures can also cause leaf damage. If you need help identifying an issue, feel free to send us an email with some pictures and we will be happy to help troubleshoot!
Q: Why do my leaves look moldy?
A: You may be dealing with powdery or downy mildew! These are common issues in the garden as they impact a wide range of crops, including many vegetables and flowers. They are typically treatable, especially if caught early.
Q: Why are my leaves curling?
A: As with the other issues, leaf curl can be cause by a variety of issues – insects, diseases, or environment. If you are experiencing leaf curl, or any other issue, don’t hesitate to reach out for some assistance with troubleshooting!
Ending the Season
Q: How do I wrap up the garden season?
A: You may choose to leave crops in the garden at the end of the season, which may provide added nutrients to the soil as they break down. However, this is not recommended if you have experienced disease or certain pest issues over the season, and it may increase the likelihood of issues the following season. Removing plants as they die off in the fall/winter can help make spring garden prep easier. Ultimately, it’s up to you!
Q: How can I extend the season?
A: Succession planting is a great way to extend the season! See our blog post about it here.
Planting crops in the fall and winter can also be a great way to extend the season. Get some ideas here.
There are also several options for extending the season through protections such as low tunnels and cold frames. Look for our July blog for more information!
Happy Gardening!
Author: Ashley W.
